Donatella new collection opened with a swaggering black pantsuit, the jacket's midsection cinched with a boned corset that emphasized the fullness of its shoulders. A versatile, intensely pigmented crayon that can be used as a kohl, liner and smokey eye pencil. Anything extraneous was jettisoned. No one has time to be uncomfortable, says Pickersgill. Wang came out for his bow at the end in...